Monday, July 30, 2012
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
We would like to thank these great customers for their kind words
We are committed to customer satisfaction. Take a look at what our customers are saying!
"This is the 5th Hyundai I have purchased from St. Cloud Hyundai. I keep going back because I am treated well and I am sold on Hyundai's quality. Jon has been great to work with, and I will go back to him next time I need a vehicle." - Timothy L.
"I had a 2010 Veracruz that I loved! I got a call from the dealership with a great option to trade in my '10 for a year newer Veracruz that such a great deal I had to trade UP! My sales man Lee was very good at explaining what trade in I would get and the benefits that I would get by doing a trade in and purchasing a new Veracruz. I just love my Hyundai!!!" - Sharon M.
"Jay, my salesman was great (he) emailed me after purchase to see how I liked my car. I had a question about one of the functions and he got back to me immediately. I am very happy with my experience at St. Cloud Hyundai!" -- Angela M.
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Hyundai Trials Out Its “Less Extroverted” ‘Fluidic Precision’ Design Language
In a recent interview given to the Automobile magazine, Hyundai USA CEO John Krafcik put some light on the company’s future plans, about how their next generation vehicles will take an evolutionary step forward from the current ‘fluidic sculpture’ design philosophy with a creation of more understated and mature model range. “You’ll see even more maturity with the new Santa Fe, and future cars will feature something we’re internally calling Fluidic Precision, where the forms might be a little less extroverted,” Krafcik said. “You’ll see that with the next Sonata, the design of which has just been frozen.”
Following this interview, Hyundai revealed its upcoming ‘fluidic precision’ design language, which will be “less extroverted” and more conservative as compared to the current styling theme. With their next Hyundai i45, they will also be the first to sport the new look. Hyundai’s latest fluidic sculpture design theme first appeared at the 2009 Geneva motor show which was based on the Hyundai ix-onic concept. The showroom debut happened in the form of ix35 compact SUV later that year. From then onwards the theme has been applied to all the ranges including the upcoming Santa Fe, which is incidentally the last mainstream model to accept fluidic sculpture in Australia in the final quarter of this year.
Although Hyundai is put on the map from a design perspective, not everyone seems to approve of Hyundai’s idea of fluidic sculpture design language. One for instance is Ford group vice president, design, and chief creative officer, J Mays opined that Ford’s next generation of vehicles would have a lot more premium look than Hyundai’s. “I’m not criticizing Hyundai,” Mays said, “it’s just a different philosophy, but their [fluidic sculpture design language] is really all over the map, it’s really loud and fussy. I don’t think that’s premium and I really don’t think it’s sustainable.” This design has worked for Hyundai Australia, around 45,306 new Hyundai’s have been sold in Australia in the first half of this year whereas Ford had 43, 430 sales.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Driven: 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT
Hyundai’s Elantra Touring was a prime example of a good small wagon. This European import was based on the Hyundai i30 and managed to combine style and function in a reasonably priced, efficient package. Folding the backseats down gave access to 65.3 cubic feet of space; just short of the cavernous Volkswagen Jetta Sportwagen’s 66.8 cubic feet in a vehicle that was almost three inches shorter overall.
[Click here for our review of the 2012 Mazda3 Skyactiv]
For 2013, though, the Elantra Touring has been replaced by this, the Elantra GT. Right off the bat, though, we were skeptical of this new body style. While the old Touring was a dedicated wagon, the Elantra GT is technically a five-door hatch, and it loses cargo volume accordingly. It’s down from a maximum 65.3 cubic feet to 51 cubic feet, although with the second row up, there’s less of a sacrifice, only 1.3 cubic feet is lost (23 cubic feet versus 24.3 in the old model). Overall interior volume is down from 125.5 to 119 cubic feet.
Consequently, Hyundai’s bogey is no longer the Jetta Sportwagen, but is far more diverse for 2013. Primary competitors are listed as the Mazda3, Ford Focus, Subaru Impreza, Volkswagen Golf, and Toyota Matrix (all in five-door hatch configurations, where applicable). The Elantra GT looks to be a fair match for this competitive set for multiple reasons, not the least of which is age; the Mazda3 and VW Golf aren’t long for this world in their current iterations, and the Toyota Matrix has been a zombie since NUMMI was taken over by Tesla. Only the Focus and Impreza have been updated recently.
Part of our love of affordable long-roofs is the unique style that these cars have over the more traditional sedans they are based on. In the GT’s case, it shares its face with the rest of the Elantra range, but walks a line between the blacked-out grille of the Coupe and the more docile face of the Sedan.
It’s clear from the profile that this is more hatchback than wagon, as the D-pillar slopes rather aggressively, leaving a fairly small window between the rear pillars. This doesn’t really impact visibility all that much, as the view through the two side windows is pretty good. The rear window itself is adequately sized, and we had no real complaints about rear visibility. Out back, a subtle spoiler is present, along with the standard wrap-around taillights. In a cool premium twist, the rear-view camera hides behind the Hyundai logo, popping up when the car is slotted into reverse.
Inside, it’s the same clean, stylish, and well-finished interior that we’ve seen on other Elantra models. Plastics feel no better or worse here than in any other Hyundai. While we understand the reasoning behind all three models boasting identical interiors, one of the highlights of the old Touring was that its interior was different from the sedan, and felt more high-class because of it. On the GT, it loses that specialness, and just feels like any other Elantra.
To be honest, we really aren’t going to say all that much about the Elantra GT’s powertrain, because we give fairly in-depth reviews of it here and here. It’s the same 1.8-liter four-cylinder that’s found in the Coupe and Sedan, delivering 148 horsepower and 131 pound-feet of torque. It also nets 39 miles per gallon on the highway. A six-speed manual is standard, while a six-cog autobox with a manual mode is an optional extra.
The Elantra GT is Hyundai’s first model to sport the brand’s new Driver Selectable Steering Mode system. Basically, this system allows drivers to switch between three different levels (creatively called Comfort, Normal, and Sport) of steering effort. Comfort requires the least effort, while Sport requires the most. The system is operated via a steering-wheel-mounted button, with the instrument cluster display showing which mode the driver is in.
We tested all three modes, and found the results to be negligible. There’s maybe a 15- to 20-percent difference in steering effort between Comfort and Normal, and Normal and Sport. It’s nice, but we feel like it’d make a lot more sense for this system to be on the Veloster Turbo, Genesis Coupe, or even the Elantra Coupe, rather than a five-door hatchback with no sporting pretenses.
In terms of on-road character, the GT is much more like the Sedan than the Coupe. That’s a good thing, as the Coupe’s rougher ride doesn’t do it any favors. Instead, the GT feels smoother over rougher sections of tarmac. Its biggest issue remains the level of vertical motion over undulating pavement, but it manages rougher stuff much better. While the Coupe would sidestep and feel unstable in mid-corner bumps, the GT is more composed. There still isn’t a great deal of feedback on hand here, but it’s about par for the course in this category.
Let’s be honest though, people that buy the Elantra GT are interested in practicality. Those buyers certainly won’t be disappointed. We mentioned the five-door GT boasts 51 cubic feet of space with the back seats folded down, and 23 cubic feet with the second row up. To put that in perspective, the only car in this class that has more space is the Subaru Impreza (but only by one cubic foot of cargo volume). Helping the cargo situation is a clever storage space under the floor of the trunk area that looks big enough to handle items that may slide around too much when left alone.
Backseat space is tolerable, as we were able to stuff Senior Editor John Beltz Snyder behind your six-foot, one-inch author with only a modicum of complaining. Those same backseats cleverly flip forward and fold flat, presenting a nice, wide loading space.
The hatchback has the highest starting price in the Elantra range at $18,395. Unlike the other two body styles, though, the GT is features only one trim level. In place of dedicated trim levels are two packages, the Style Package and the Tech Package. The Style Pack ($2750) includes a sport-tuned suspension, panoramic sunroof, leather seats, and seventeen-inch alloys. The Tech Pack ($2350) features navigation, a rearview camera, automatic headlights, and push-button start. Opting for the six-speed automatic will run another $1000. That makes for a fully loaded model running $25,245, out the door.
The pricing equation works out well for the GT. It’s starting price bests everything but the Volkswagen Golf by around $1000. Optioned up, as our tester was and the Elantra GT still makes a fair bit of sense, costing around the same price as a loaded Subaru Impreza or Mazda3, and undercutting a navigation-and-leather-equipped Ford Focus by just over $2000. Even if price isn’t your determining factor, 39 mpg on the freeway and the sheer amount of cargo space make the Elantra GT a fine choice for a small wagon.
2013 Hyundai Elantra GT
Engine: Inline-four, 1.8 liters, 16v
Output: 148 hp/131 lb-ft
Weight: 2784 lb
Fuel Economy, City/Hwy: 39/27 mpg
Cargo Volume, 2nd Row Up/Down: 23/51 cu ft
Base Price: $18,395
On Sale: Now
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
5 Questions For: Hyundai CEO John Krafcik
Is Hyundai investigating or planning a premium brand, like Acura to Honda or Infiniti to Nissan?
“We actually thought about launching the Genesis that way, and putting them in their own showrooms, but we’re not going to do standalone premium franchises because costs are so high. If you multiply 200 dealerships by a cost of $10-20 million per dealer to make a new space, it comes out to something like $5000 or $6000 that would have to be added to the price of the car. As far as our Equus ‘experience,’ our customers love it. If Equus were its own brand the satisfaction ratings with customer service would be number two, just behind Cadillac. But would we do it? Probably not.”
Now that the Fluidic Sculpture design language has taken off, what’s its future? How are future models going to differentiate from each other?
“I think if you look at the progression from Sonata to Elantra to Azera, you can see the design mature over time. You’ll see even more maturity with the new Santa Fe, and future cars will feature something we’re internally calling Fluidic Precision, where the forms might be a little less extroverted. You’ll see that with the next Sonata, the design of which has just been frozen.”
What’s the timeframe for the Veloster Turbo? When will it go on sale/arrive at dealers?
“Right now, actually. The Veloster Turbo is shipping to dealers now, and I think we’ve had our first American sale. I know a few models have been sold in Canada. Likewise sales of the Elantra GT and Elantra Coupe started a couple of weeks ago.”
Will we see any future Hyundai models in these bodystyles?
- Premium Crossover: “Maybe”
- Convertible: “Probably Not”
- Minivan: “No”
- “The whole market might be 600,000 units a year, and if we carve out 10 percent of that, that’s what–60,000 units? And it’s generally a North America-only platform. We just don’t have the volume.”
- Pickup Truck: “Not any time soon”
- “It’s more difficult to make a small or mid-size pickup truck and boost your CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) numbers, thanks to some of the ways those numbers are calculated. But there’s definitely a market for it.”
- All-wheel drive sedan or coupe: “Yes”
- “We learned our lesson with snow-belt buyers and the first Genesis sedan, so the next-generation Genesis (which will be previewed in concept car form later this year) will have AWD capability.”
- BMW 3 Series-beater: “Probably”
- “We’re thinking about it with the next-generation Genesis Coupe, in trying to match the BMW 3 Series (or the 4 Series, in this case).”
- A convertible SUV. Santa Fe CrossCabriolet, maybe?
- “I think we’ll leave that segment to Nissan.”
Do you have any comment on the recent class-action lawsuit about the Elantra fuel economy? Would you consider marketing using the combined fuel economy rating instead?
“The lawsuit, as we see it, focuses on the fact that they thought we didn’t fully disclose that 40 mpg was highway fuel economy. If you look at the way Ford marketed the Fiesta and Focus, Chevy marketed the Cruze Eco, Dodge is advertising its Dart — we’re all doing the same thing. We screen all of our advertisements to meet FTC regulations, and we feel we met the standard.”
“As far as combined numbers go, if you have a car with class-leading fuel economy, more product sales are arguably better for the environment, national fuel consumption, et cetera. And if you’re out there showing the okay number while the other guy is showing the excellent numbers, you’re going to lose sales, and it’s going to be detrimental to the environment, dependence on foreign oil, et cetera. I just don’t think it’s socially responsible to advertise that way. It’s a bold move, but I’m not sure it’s the right move.”
Thursday, July 12, 2012
Wednesday, July 11, 2012
Come check out this great vehicle!
Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us!
"We were in the market for a more comfortable ride, yet had a very good mileage and convienience, my wife is 5'1" and wanted power seats, Chris Vance and Lee Vogt did an excellent job in meeting her needs and letting her test multiple vehicles, we decided on the Sonata, why because I drive a 2008 Sonata as a company car and it has 184,000 trouble free miles on it, we believe that the Sonata will fit her needs for many trouble free years. The St. Cloud dealer should and I believe is very proud of the employees, dealership, and that I have noticed that they treat all customers with respect. Hyundai has a GREAT dealership here, I only wish that they could take over one of the empty dealership buildings in Monticello, MN. Thank You for a Wonderful Vehicle, Jerry and Ann E.
Hyundai Preps for Apocalypse with Zombie Survival Vehicle
In preparation for this year's Comic-Con, Hyundai has joined in on the zombie apocalypse frenzy with the unveiling of its latest concept vehicle, the Zombie Survival Machine. Pretty much exactly what it sounds like, the Zombie Survival Machine is a heavily modified Hyundai Elantra optimized for plowing through armies of the undead.
Teaming up with zombie apocalypse expert and graphic novel creator Robert Kirkman, Hyundai and Design Craft Fabrication created the vehicle with custom add-ons such as a spike-filled zombie plow, roof hatch for passenger-enabled zombie shotgunning, armored window coverings, all-terrain tires, radio system and, of course, a plethora of weapons and storage compartments.
Hoping to account for just about every disaster situation, Hyundai promises to bring even more features on board. While a Hyundai Elantra probably isn't the first vehicle you would think of turning to for mowing down hordes of hungry zombies, we have to admit the company has created one mouth-watering concept. Sadly, we probably won't be seeing these bad boys enter production any time soon, so if the apocalypse comes, you'll just have to duct tape some samurai swords to your Prius and hope for the best.
Monday, July 9, 2012
Friday, July 6, 2012
Thursday, July 5, 2012
Monday, July 2, 2012
Top 10 Car Summer Maintenance Tips
10: Check Your Tires
Tires are one of the most overlooked parts of a car. According the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA), only one out of 10 drivers checks his or her tire pressure correctly, compared with almost seven out of 10 who wash their cars regularly [source: RMA]. But the truth is that an under-inflated, over-inflated, worn down or misaligned tire can be extremely dangerous, particularly in hot summer weather.
Tire pressure changes with the rising temperatures -- approximately one to two PSI (pounds per square inch) for every 10-degree increase in outside air temperature [source: RMA]. Consult your owner's manual or the sidewall of your tire to see what your tire pressure should be and check it with a hand pressure gauge or just let the guys at the service shop do it for you.
An under-inflated tire bulges outward and puts undo pressure on the sidewalls of the tire. With enough heat and pressure, that tire eventually will blow. An over-inflated tire, on the other hand, makes less contact with the road and can lead to hydroplaning in wet conditions.
Use the penny trick to see if you still have enough tread on your tires. Stick a penny in the tread, and if Lincoln's head disappears, you're good [source: CBS News]. Your local service shop or specialty tire store can also check your tires for proper alignment and balance.
And don't forget about your spare! There's no point in having a spare tire if your spare is in worse condition than the rest. Make sure the spare is properly inflated and has ample tread depth.
Maybe by now the summer heat is making you thirsty. Your car could use a drink, too.
9: Change Oil and Oil Filter
Oil is the lifeblood of your car. It keeps hardworking engine parts running clean, smooth and cool. Most owner's manuals suggest that you change your oil and oil filter every 7,500 miles (12,070 kilometers). Oil change specialists suggest every 3,000 miles (4,828 kilometers) or three months. The fact is, most of us do a lot of heavy driving during the summer when an engine is more likely to overheat. So at least check your oil before you head out on that road trip with the family.
To check your oil, let your car run for a few minutes, then park it on a level surface and shut off the engine. Open the hood and locate the oil dipstick. You're looking for two things here: the level of oil and how the oil looks. If you're low on oil, you can either add another quart or simply change the oil completely. The oil should look brownish yellow and clean on the stick. If the oil is a dark color or there's a lot of dirt and grime in it, then you definitely need an oil change and oil filter replacement.
Wait, didn't you do a lot of these things when you got your car ready for colder weather? As a matter of fact, yes.
8: De-Winterize Your Car
If you loyally followed our Top 10 Car Winterizing Tips, then there are several things you need to do to "un-winterize" your car for the summer weather. First of all, get rid of those snow tires. Snow tires are heavy and will lower your fuel economy.
If you haven't driven your car very much during the winter, or if you've had it in storage, then you need to check all of the fluid levels -- coolant, transmission, differential, power steering and brake fluid -- to make sure there weren't any leaks. You'll also want to change the oil, since oil gets thick and collects condensation if it sits in the engine all winter. If you haven't used your battery in a while, you might need a recharge or a replacement.
It's also important to really clean the undercarriage of the car after a long winter, especially if you live in a snowy climate. The salt that's used to melt snow and ice on roads can get caked on the underside of your car and begin to eat away at the metal. Lots of caked-on gunk will also make your engine and transmission run hotter, because heat has a harder time escaping through the bottom of the car.
You can clean the undercarriage yourself using a plain water hose or high-pressure cleaning system. Many professional car washes and detailing services can also perform a high-pressure steam clean for really nasty build-up.
7. Check Hoses and Belts
The key to summer driving is keeping the engine cool. We're going to talk about the radiator and coolant soon, but first you need to check the hoses and belts. The hoses connected to the radiator help pump coolant to and from the engine block, and the belts run the fan that helps cool the system further. If the hoses crack or the belts snap, the radiator will quickly overheat, leaving you stranded.
Check hoses for cracks, leaks and loose connections. Hoses should be firm, never soft and malleable. Hoses suffer from a slow deterioration process called electrochemical degradation (ECD) that eats away at rubber hose material from the inside. The most vulnerable parts of the hose are those nearest to clamps where the hose connects to the radiator or the engine.
Belts can also be visually checked for cracks and damage. Take note if the belt looks excessively slick or smooth. Remove the belt to make sure that the material hasn't started separating into different layers. Experts say the risk of belt failure rises dramatically after 36,000 miles
6: Change the Air Filter
Over the winter, your car's air filter can get clogged with salt and other thick debris. A clogged air filter can really lower your fuel efficiency. Replacing a dirty or clogged air filter can improve gas mileage by as much as 10 percent.
But how do you know when to change your air filter? The recommended interval is every 12,000 miles (19,312 kilometers), but that can be affected by the particular road and air conditions in which you drive. If you do a lot of driving on dirt or gravel roads, then your air filter is going to clog up much faster than an air filter in a vehicle that's used strictly for highway driving. The only real way to know if you need to replace your air filter is take it out and give it a quick inspection.
Interestingly, a slightly dirty air filter works better than a totally clean one. This is because the debris in the filter becomes part of the filtering process, trapping smaller particles that might have otherwise slipped past.
There's no real science to knowing when it's time to replace the filter. If it's really filthy, then it obviously needs to be changed. Otherwise, go with your gut. If you're preparing for a long summer of hard driving, then you might as well replace it. Air filters are relatively inexpensive.
5: Replace Your Windshield Wipers
The summertime is notorious for sudden, violent thunderstorms. When buckets of water are beating against your windshield, you need wipers that really work. Even more so at night, when a rain storm can decrease visibility to 15 or 20 feet in front of your vehicle.
Winter can be tough on windshield wipers. Ice, snow, salt and extreme temperatures make cracks and tears in the rubber that lower the effectiveness of the wipers. If your wipers are leaving visible streaks or take several passes to clear away light rain, they need to be replaced.
When replacing a wiper blade, it's better to replace the whole blade, not just the rubber part. Go to an auto parts store and they'll be able to give you the right blades for your make, model and year. If you've never replaced wiper blades before, it can be a little tricky. Just take your time, read the instructions carefully and everything should work out. It's also a good idea to observe the way your original wiper blades were attached. This may prove more valuable than anything printed on the new wiper blade box.
4: Check Your Brakes
Your brakes are the single most important safety feature on your car. Don't put yourself or your family at risk this summer by riding around on worn down or faulty brakes.
Brakes need to be replaced when the lining on your brake pad or brake shoe is worn down past the minimum thickness specified by the car manufacturer or state law. You can have your brake linings checked at any normal service shop or at a brake specialist.
Here are some signs that your brakes need to be checked:
- Your brake pedal becomes very soft and mushy
- Your brake pedal is very hard and resistant
- Your brake pedal rests too low or too high
- Indication or warning lights on the dashboard
- Loud and constant scraping and grinding sounds coming from the brakes
Interestingly, squealing brakes are not necessarily a sign of a problem. Brakes squeal and squeak for a wide variety of reasons, including moisture on the brake pads, discs, shoes and drums. You should only become concerned if the squealing becomes a scraping or grinding noise. This is a sign of metal-to-metal contact, which can permanently damage brake parts.
If you notice a brake problem, it pays to have it inspected or repaired as soon as possible. The cost of a brake repair can increase dramatically if even minor problems aren't fixed in a timely manner.
3: Check the Coolant and Radiator
Cars are designed to run hot, but there's a limit to how hot they should run. A combustion engine is most efficient at around 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). But if an engine is allowed to get too hot, moving metal parts can actually start to melt and fuse together, causing a variety of internal problems for your engine -- and, you guessed it, a hefty repair bill.
Luckily, all modern cars have an ingenious cooling system that uses a chemical coolant, called antifreeze, and a series of pumps, hoses, thermostats and fans to keep the car at its optimal running temperature. But any problems with this system -- low coolant levels, cracked hoses, loose or broken belts, a leak in the radiator or even a loose or missing radiator cap can cause your car to overheat and break down.
The summertime is tough on cooling systems. Sitting in traffic on a hot day is one of the quickest ways to overheat your car. This is because there's no air flowing across the engine to help keep it cool. A well-tuned cooling system can take long idles in hot weather, but if you have low coolant levels or a busted fan belt, your engine temperature is going to go up -- and fast.
Check under the hood and make sure that your coolant levels are fine. The general rule is to flush your radiator and add new coolant at least every two years. Flushing the radiator is done with a special chemical that cleans debris and build-up on the inside of the radiator. For summer driving, coolant should be added as a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. You can even buy premixed coolant so you don't have to bother with the measurements.
If you see a small puddle of coolant under your car when it's been parked for a while, then you have a coolant leak. Take it to the service station as soon as you can to get your system checked out.
2: Clean Your Battery
Wintertime is notorious for dead batteries and early morning jumpstarts. But the truth is that hot weather is even tougher on your battery.
Summer heat can speed up the chemical reaction inside a battery, causing the battery to be overcharged. This can dramatically shorten the lifespan of your battery. Heat can also damage the battery by evaporating internal battery fluid.
The best way to keep your battery running smoothly is to keep it clean. Regularly detach the battery cables and wipe off the terminals. Make sure the battery is strapped down tightly and that all connections are secure.
If you suspect that your battery is being overcharged or isn't holding a charge well, take it to a service shop where they can run a quick battery inspection. And if you need to replace the battery, make sure that it's the right battery type for your specific make and model of car.
1: Maintain Your Air Conditioning
If you've ever lost your air conditioning on a hot summer day, then you know what a big difference a little cool air makes. The best way to tell if your air conditioner has a problem is if it can't generate or maintain air temperatures that are 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) below the ambient outside air temperature.
The most common cause of a malfunctioning air conditioning unit is a low level of refrigerant. This could be caused buy a leak somewhere in the system. Since modern air conditioning systems are complicated creatures, it's best to have a professional check out the problem.
The air conditioning maintenance industry has changed a lot since 1994, when the Federal government outlawed the use of a refrigerant called R-12, known by its brand name Freon. In the past, if your air conditioner wasn't blowing cool air, you'd head down to the service shop, they'd top your car off with a little Freon and you'd be on your way.
The problem is that Freon, a chlorofluorocarbon, is extremely destructive to the ozone layer. Most people needed Freon refills because they had leaks. By simply refilling the leaky air conditioning units, millions of pounds of Freon were entering the atmosphere every year.
If your car was built before 1994, then you need to have your refrigerant checked out by a licensed professional who knows how to dispose of or recycle the material. In some states, it's illegal to refill a leaky system with R-12. However, even older cars can be easily retrofitted to use the newer, safer type of refrigerant called R-134a.
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